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Peak Mountain 3

Golden Potala

FA RH and RW June 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 – START – Scramble up the first few moves of Road to Lhasa, but where this excellent Ed Webster trad route moves to the left to the arching flake, Golden Potala climbs directly up the golden rock past 3 bolts.  (crux between #2 and 3).  Reach the flake described in “Road to Lhasa” (optional 0.75, Green, Camalot placement in the crack) and move up on this for a few moves, clip the 4th bolt and climb up, reaching a 5th  bolt and then easily up left-ish to the common anchor/belay.  75 ft  5.8+ - 5.9, listed as a 5.9- for now.NOTEs: 1) The bolts were intentionally placed a bit right of the climbing to dissuade their use while climbing Road to Lhasa.  This is especially true of bolt #4.   2) The clip for bolt #2 is difficult, but without bolt #2 clipped, chances are any fall from the crux would result in hitting the very low-angled rock below.

Location

As per Road to Lhasa : "The usual approach is from the Face Dances area. About 100 feet left of the belay for Face Dances, after the path along the base passes Herm. flake, it rises about 20-25 ft to the true "height-of-land" area. On your right is a flat-ish slab area. [see Photo(s) in Road to Lhasa] "

Protection

5 bolts to the anchor on Road to Lhasa; optional 0.75 (green) or 0.5 (purple) Camalot-sized cam, optional stiffened quick draw to clip Bolt #2