- Edit (TBD)
Description
Mixed route protected with added bolts. The first climb in the God Head Area. Located on the left side of a tall wide tower. This long fun route ascends the obvious west, north-west facing arête. Route was originally set by AMH while rope soloing. Ground-up attempt was aborted at a narrow ledge to the right of the overhanging crux. Some bolts were added solo from top-rope and the route sent with a slightly different route. When DAS followed it became clear that the line was not ideal and we moved the only two bolts and added 3 bolts to protect the crux. There are two ledges on this climb.
Thin bolt protected crux moves above the first ledge gets you established on the upper portion of the arête over slightly overhanging rock. To be safe you will probably want to place a 0.5 or 0.75 cam towards the top of the crux sequence in the ample horizontal cracks that are bomber. From the large top ledge climb 15 more feet to get to the anchors. Small to medium cams. Rap from anchors into the gulley. A 60 m rope gets you to easy down climbing back to base of the climb. Or, rap left to a ledge to access Fear No Evil.
Location
The farthest north arête of Godhead North, see route map for location relative to others.
Protection
5-7 bolts protect small to medium cam placements that are tricky and insecure down low and bomber up high. Save a 0.25 or 0.3 to clear the upper face to anchors. A medium cam helps protect the long crux.
Routes in Godhead North
- 2The Gods Must Think Im Crazy5.11Sport · Trad