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Description
Said by some to be the best climb in Bishop, this one will definitely make your heart race and your legs wobble.
Stand Start at a good jug rail and busy a huge move up to a small crimp. Match then head out right to improving holds and an increasingly scary landing. Match the rail with left foot on the start hold and cut feet. Hold on and then get your right foot on and make another big move up. From here you can drop down and match the previous rail and bail or go for the send and make another huge move to a good hold below the lip above a no-fall zone.
From here take some deep breaths and climb on to the lip via a mantle or some beached whale action.
A beautifully clean line with big power moves on good crimps. Bring your friends and possibly some crutches.
Location
On the far side of the block over a slanting slope covered in rocks.
Protection
No pads. You don't need that negativity...