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Description
This is a fun climb with mixed protection. Climb up to the top of a free-standing blocky pillar. Commit to the moves off the pillar and onto a ledge below a short crack. Once above the crack, reach the first bolt out on the left, and continue face climbing up and to the left to reach the anchors.
This climb can also be linked up into the 2nd pitch of Sheer Stress to make an enjoyable long pitch. Do this by clipping a long sling on the last (3rd) bolt, and then, instead of heading left to the anchors, skip the anchor bolts and head up right to join with Sheer Stress P2. Use slings on the upper pitch to reduce rope drag.
Location
Downhill to the right about 15' from the tree in the middle of Red Wall. Left of the fully-bolted sport climb Hard Body.
Protection
Great nut placements or cams to 1" protect the first half, then 3 bolts + anchors.
Routes in (3) Red Wall
- 19Sheer Energy5.10aTrad