Northwest Ridge

From the Green Lakes trailhead, hike 4.2 miles to Green Lakes. From the junction, take the trail that passes to the left, north side of the smaller lake. Shortly after passing the lake, look for a climbers trail on the right, that leads to the saddle. The trail is well worn and easy to find. Hike up the ridge, passing a few gendarmes that provide route-finding alternatives, some exposed on gravel and scree but with little difficulty, until reaching an obvious balcony. Above is a terrace that provides the crux of the route. There are many alternatives: (1) traverse right (onto the west side on a short red ledge, then scramble up a steep bit of rock (slings useful for protection) to a loose slope, to reach another headwall. Work right, following a crude path, then back left to the summit. (2) From the balcony, traverse left on poor rock, following tracks that go to a small saddle. From there the summit is a short exposed scramble to the right (west). OR, (3) From the balcony, go straight up decent rock (class 4 or low 5, protectable with slings) to reach the same slope as in alternative (1). There is a block with fixed slings for an anchor to belay others up (and back down on the descent). Follow the same path as in (1) to the summit. Alternative (3) is probably the safest and least exposed route.

In early season, bring crampons and ice axe.