- Edit (TBD)
Description
This pleasant moderate follows an attractive corner for two short pitches of varied climbing up the southeast face. This was the first known route on the butte.
P1-Start up a short band of loose rock, enter the clean, slabby corner that starts off-finger and widens through fists, end on a large ledge. Make a gear belay from good cracks with finger-hand sizes. (5.9, 70')
P2-Move right 15' and head up a short handcrack in a corner with unique pockets on the left wall. This ends in a short loose bit immediately below the expansive summit plateau. Rig a gear belay. There are twin cold shuts for a rappel anchor just left (southwest) of where the pitch tops out. (5.8, 30')
Hike west a ways over slabs and slots to the high point (hard to really discern). We left a register in a cairn at what we figured was the highest spot. The summit plateau is a cool spot to ramble around a bit.
Location
A clean corner just a bit right (northeast) of the center of the southeast (roadside) face. Refer to the beta pictures. The approach is pretty obvious, up talus to the base in about 15 minutes from the car.
Protection
(1x) .2-.4 (2x) .5-3 (1x) 4 BD C4 sizes, cold shut rap anchor on summit. 1 60m rope adequate.
Routes in Juniper Butte
- 1The Original Route5.9Trad