Gemini Crack

One of three routes starting from the Sentry Box Ledge, Gemini Crack is an excellent line with a thought-provoking but well-protected crux. Though officially it's a two-pitch climb, there's no good reason not to do it in one long pitch. Don't miss this classic if you're climbing the South Side.

P1 - Starting on the Sentry Ledge, climb a right-facing corner until you're just below a pair of left-angling vertical cracks on steeper ground. Move right to the cracks and follow them up and left (crux). When these cracks peter out, continue a short distance on easier terrain to a good horizontal gear belay (or to combine pitches, continue up to the anchors). 5.8, 100'

P2 - Continue up through eyebrows and some runout easier ground to the new ring anchors below the old Gemini rap tree. 5.6, 80'

Starts on the Sentry Box Ledge just left of Zodiac. An alleged 3rd class scramble (more of a 5.easy free solo) will get you to the ledge. Double-rope rap from new ring bolts just below the old belay tree gets you back to the Sentry Ledge, then a single-rope rap to the ground.

Medium gear; cams, tricams and nuts.