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MapDescription
Start off with a short scramble up to a ledge with a no-hands rest. Climb a technical ramp, and then get a quick shake before tackling the powerful overhanging face (crux). I went left, probably making it slightly easier.
Be careful, a few loose hand/footholds from time to time. Until this thing cleans up a bit more, I could see the grade changing quite a bit.
Location
When you get to the Little Black Cliff, turn sharp left, and walk past
When The Wives Are Away...
. The rock will dip back away from the road creating a tree-filled clearing. This is on the far side next to
Z Elephant Boy
.
Protection
Bolts to chains.
Routes in Little Black Cliff
- 4Reanimation5.11+Sport