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Peak Mountain 3

Brass Monkey

FA Brandon Gust, Paul Kimbrough
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Awesome, hard route on the South Face of Wolfs Head. Good protection and fixed anchors. The crux is a challenging undercling roof to flared hand jams, pinches, and finally jugs. We tried multiple tactics on the crux pitch to keep the rope out of a constricting crack and we finally settled on a directional protection bolt. We used a quickdraw with a DMM Revolver to minimize rope drag on this bolt. We established this as a rap route, but it is not trivial. If you choose this descent be sure to rap west(skiers right) of arette on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th raps from ridge or you will be stranded free hanging.

Location

South Face of Wolfs Head. See photo and topo

Protection

1set Green C3-Gold Camalot, optional double red-gold, slings, quickdraws, one quickdraw with 4inch dogbone and DMM Revolver.