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Peak Mountain 3

New Mutant

FA Paul Piana
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This thing is mean...VERY MEAN. If you're not very comfortable or don't enjoy flaring cracks, then keep going. This is one of the most flaring hard cracks I can think of in Vedauwoo, and it's awesome. Start with some easier and straightforward but still burly moves that make you think "Hey, this might not be that bad" and continue into thought provoking, crystal dancing and butthole clinching climbing that leads to a heartbreaking, mega-flare ending.

Actually, it's very fun and all in all very safe. The first half of the route protects very well where you need it, and the second half is a little tricky but in no way warrants a PG grade. If you're on this side of the Nautilus and looking for a good technical challenge, this is it.

Location

Start 20 feet right of

Ghost Dance

.

Protection

Bring your offset micro stoppers and small offset cams. Otherwise it's mainly finger and thin hand size pieces. Figuring out the protection is half the battle.


Routes in Nautilus


  1. 45
    New Mutant
    5.12+
    Trad