NW Ridge

NW Ridge 5.2 II **

This is the long ridge to the north of the summit which at times appears to be a vertical rubble pile of large boulders, but often has good to very good rock for climbing. Best to approach from the north (2 mile bushwhack up the forested slope due south of Remmel Lake). From a high camp along the ridge at timberline (7500'), hike and scramble (3rd class) up the lightly vegetated and boulder strewn NW Ridge to the top of the North Summit. Make 2 rappels on the west side to be able to regain the ridge (be careful of loose rock/boulders on all the rappels). From there follow the ridge top as much as possible, doing a couple of 5.1 to 5.2 pitches on mostly stable rock on each of the two main gendarmes (harder variations are possible). 3.5 hrs from high camp to summit, 2.5 hrs for descent (a rappel from each of the gendarmes of the upper ridge is required).

Best to approach from the north (2 mile bushwhack up the forested slope due south of Remmel Lake), to a high camp at timberline along the lower NW Ridge.

Ascent and descent is along the NW Ridge (6 hours total). Several rappels necessary.

Small rack of nuts and long slings (take extra for rap anchors on both the ascent and descent). Single 50 or 60 m rope is all thats needed.