We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Rapunzel Arete

FA TR Ken+Sharon Roberts 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the topside of the obvious tree, step down right. Start on the face between the open book on left and a foot-wide crack/gully on right ... up to an arete along left side of a left-trending gully. Climb the arete. From the topside of the obvious tree, step down right. Start on the face between the open book on left and a foot-wide crack/gully on right ... up to an arete along left side of a left-trending gully. Climb the arete. . (Variation: climb in the gully just right of the arete - couple of thoughtful dihedral moves, then finish up the crack to right of upper arete - 5.7).

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Upper Left sector. Hike diagonal-leftward up steep-ish gully to eight-inch tree. See Routes photo.

There is a less-steep waiting area just below left from tree (with a drop-off below, so might want to tether belayer or waiting climbers).

Protection

Top-Roping: Instead of ascending the obvious steep + loose gully on left side of crag, easier to set up top anchor by going around bottom right (east) side of crag, then scramble up gully (diagonal left-ward) between this crag and the next crag to the east.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.