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MapReader of Banned Books
Description
Sit start (crux) with an oblique left hand edge and a horizontal right hand edge. From there, set a right heel, gain a pair of edges (this section gets bunched), then continue up the arete to its apex, and top it out using the bumps.
If done as a proper sit start (your butt is the last to leave the ground), I believe it's the crux. Using bicycle foot beta during the initial pull-off helps stop the pull and allows for the heel to be hooked.
Location
It ascends the north-facing arete, the finish to this problem is the same as
Hellava Half Life
.
Protection
A few pads will do it, the landing is great on this one.
Routes in Sonofabitchinbastard Boulder
- 4Reader of Banned BooksV3Bouldering