Lighting the Torch

This was what we considered to be the most straightforward way to get to the top of this iconic feature. We HAD to get to the top! The initial attempt led to AMH about 5 feet above a tiny cam in a horizontal and facing the crux that looked tricky and loose. That led to a bit of down climbing and the placement of the single bolt to make the move onto the arete a bit more secure.

Start on the south-east facing side on ledge that supports the Torch. Climb through the obvious weakness to gain a small ledge. Clip one bolt, move left and up and then back right to the top. Small to medium cams. This was the first ascent to get to the top of the Torch.

Southern face of The Torch.

Single bolt, horizontal placements that will take small to medium cams well. A 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75 should give you plenty to work with. The FA was on a 0.25 and a 0.75. Metolius chain with rap ring. Better to belay from the top rather than set up a slingshot (then you can both enjoy the gorgeous view!).