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Peak Mountain 3

Beanie Weenie Tower

FA Adam Ferro, Jeff Widen, Ben Kiessel
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1:

Free and aid up a crack with sections of loose rock to a ledge about 60' up.  From here either

belay off big cams

continue straight up the wide crack with loose/soft rock to a ledge on your left and a two bolt anchor.

climb through the bushy crack on the left to a big ledge, then continue to scramble up and left to the same two bolt anchor. 5.9 C1, 115'

Pitch 2:

Aid up the obvious splitter crack above the anchor until it peters out.  At this point I placed two hand sized cams in the crappy horizontals and half freed and half aided to the left and then back up and right to another splitter crack.  Follow this until it ends and start clipping bolts.  Follow 9 bolts to the summit.  Two of the bolts don't have hangers.  5.8 C2 110'

Note:

All bolts are 1/2" and the anchors have chain and won't need tat.

Location

This tower is on a point in the middle of the canyon.  The route starts on the east side of the tower.  Scramble up and left to a ledge below a crack and the base of the route.

Protection

3x-.4 & .5 camalot

2x-.3-4 camalot

1x-5 & 6 camalot

Single set of stoppers

Single 70m rope

Two rivet hangers if you don't want to use stoppers.


Routes in Comb Wash Cave Area


  1. 1
    Beanie Weenie Tower
    5.9
    Trad · Aid