Best of the West

ALL THE BELAY AND LEAD BOLTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED IN AUGUST OF 2020.

This route developed a reputation as an exciting climb, even though it hasn't seen many known repeat ascents. Best of the West has not gotten much action due to having old bolts, which now been replaced. The climbing is protected well enough, especially the difficult moves and the cruxes. Right facing corner on pitch 4 has a funky section that requires a few small cams, small offset nuts or offset cam (blue/purple metolius size) to protect a short funky section midway up. The dangerous part of the route is the under-cling layback on pitch 6, AKA "Cling or Fling." About 30 feet of horizontal traversing which requires "going for it" and not trying to place gear, as there are no stances, and gear would likely block shallow pods for fingers - 5.9+ R. This is the mental crux.

The physical crux is on pitch 5 and can be adequately protected. The pitch starts with difficult moves off the belay to the first bolt (there used to be two bolts here - one being a backup for the other), few more moves will take you to another bolt (there used to be two bolts here too), after which a balancy traverse right will take you to #1 camalot placement in an overhang, and more traversing will allow you to place one more smaller cam and do some difficult moves left, into a right facing corner. Crux of the pitch is traverse left above the last bolt. It is unclear if the FA party rated this crux as 5.11a or 5.11d, as Best of the West is listed as 5.11+, but the pitch is listed as 5.11a, and there are no other 5.11 pitches on the route...to us it felt like a hard boulder problem that is no easier than 5.11 but easier than 5.12a...whatever you wanna call it, it is cool, improbable, balancy and doable. Believe in your feet, run the PDL and really go for it!

The climb is located on the left side of the main face, near large trees. Best of the West begins with about 200 feet of 3rd class scrambling up a right-leaning, shallow left-facing corner. Belay below the large roof.

Doubles from tiny to #2 camalot. Single #3 camalot.