Starr/Eichorn/Michael/Amphitheater Chutes

These routes all converge at the notch on the north side of the peak (with the exception of Michaels Chute), but all share the crux headwall above "The Portal", so I have posted them here together as one. The class-4 original ratings of the first 3 routes below are laughable by modern standards - these early pioneers were bad @ss!

Michaels Chute - Charles Michael 09/1923

This is the southernmost of the three westside chutes. It leads directly to "The Portal" and the crux headwall. Mostly cl.3&4 with some cl.5 passing large chockstones in the lower chute.

Eichorns Chute - Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, Richard Jones 08/1933 - the route of the rescue party in search of Walter Starr; listed in the “Sierra Classics” guide.

This is the central chute on the west side. A 30' chockstone near the bottom is climbed via 5.6 on the left side, with much cl.3&4 scrambling to the notch north of the peak.

Starrs Chute  - Walter "Pete" Starr, solo 08/1933 (killed on descent)

This is the northernmost chute on the west side. Loose cl.4 scrambling leads to a point below the south side of Eichorn Minaret where you traverse right to join Eichorns Chute near the top.

Amphitheater Chute - Mike Sherrick & Walley Tinsley 08/1958

This is the large chute on the east side of the peak. Three pitches up to 5.4 through steep sections interspersed with loose scrambling lead to the notch on the north side of the peak. There are many rap slings in place and this is probably the best descent route off Michael Minaret, and also the easiest route to access.

From the notch on the north side of the peak, descend back down ~20' on the west side and look for a large cairn out on the ridge - this leads to the Pete Starr Memorial plaque. From here, continue traversing (cl.4) around the next rock rib to the south and into the top of Michaels Chute at the base of "The Portal". Contrary to the beta in some guidebooks, you DO NOT go through the Portal - this puts you out into no-man's land with crazy exposure. A steep corner crack on the right side of the Portal is your entry point to the headwall - probably 5.6 or 5.7. 2 or 3 pitches up to 5.6 lead up and left to the wildly exposed summit.

The rappel route off the summit leads directly back down over the steep corner crack at The Portal. I think it was ~3 x 30M rappels off slings on blocks. From here, reverse the path past the plaque and back to the notch. Depending on where you came from and your basecamp, descend the chute of your choosing. Bring plenty of cord to back up the rappel stations.

Single rack to 2" or 3" and a 60M rope will probably suffice