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Peak Mountain 3

Hex Marks the Poot

FA Dave Evans, 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Hex Marks the Poot is an incredibly obvious crack (when standing near the Don Juan boulder) on a series of blocks leaning against the South Astro Dome. It is just left of the sheer northeast face of this formation.

Climb up the hand and fist crack past a horizontal rail, and then enter the off-width. Left side in, right side smearing on the face will get you up it. It's very fun but gym rats and posers will complain. Continue to a nice alcove with weird horns to sling and belay, or continue up the second pitch - a pretty right-curving crack (feasible as one pitch with a long sling or two). No fixed anchors that I could find but a rappel is easy with some long webbing around those horns.

The first pitch goes at 5.7 (possibly 5.7+ ?), and the second pitch at 5.8.

Protection

An assortment of hand, fist, and large off-width gear sew up the first pitch. The off-width is fairly secure so if you want to leave behind the 4.5 camalot you can. Smaller gear for the second.