Shock the Monkey

This exceptionally fine steep crack is any trad climbers dream, with great gear, hard moves, clean rock, safe falls, and best of all pump factor that keeps you desperatly jamming with lactic acid bloated arms until the very end. Every gear placement can be seen from the ground, taking finger-to hand sized peices in the lower roof, do a fun technical steep crux, thread your fingers the natural ring and place a fist sized piece, and traverse out the last part of the roof doing gaston hand jams and clever footwork to pull around the corner to a nice 5.7 crack to the top.

Right in the middle of the sport cliff, this is the obvious, steep roof crack just left of Fiddler Under the Roof, and right of

The Albatross

.

(In BD Camalots) doubles from #0.3s to #2s, and one #3 (fist-sized) for the middle of the roof. There is an old sling at the top, which is looking a bit worst for wear, with a quicklink. Bolted anchor anyone? Or shall we replace it with another sling to rot?