- Edit (TBD)
Description
5.11+ in guidebook - slightly harder than Toothpick, but not by much. Excellent sequences on bullet hard rock. This is among the best cracks in Portland. Climbs right arching crack to the left of Toothpick.
Navigate the initial moves off of the pedestal to a great jug. Rest up, pull a challenging boulder problem (crux) then jam the satisfying finger locks to the top.
Gear after first 15 feet is G. Would be inadvisable to fall above your first piece of gear (pg13 section) - given the bad landing onto the pedestal and marginal quality of the placement. Beginning section may require quick gardening (vines tend to grow up the pedestal - but they are very easy to clean)
Protection
Rack from .2 to 2.5 inch. Doubles in 1 inch will be useful. Offset cam can be used to protect flaring crack at the crux
Routes in j. Toothpick Wall
- 16Close to the Edge5.12aTrad