Sweet Carillon

Sweet Carillon takes a fun line on the impressive east face of Mount Carillon. Put up in 2008 by Andre and Shay.

The route starts by ascending 4th class terrain on a large clean slab, aiming for the left of the two prominent cracks. Scramble as far as you can before reaching steeper, more insecure terrain that wants a rope.

P1: Climb a flared, sometimes dirty 5.8 crack that leads up to the left edge of a roof feature. At the roof a second crack emerges on your left that can be used. Continue up and around the right side of a second roof with a few pumpy 5.10 moves. This is a long pitch, nearly a full 60m if you roped up where we did.

P2: Climb straight up the fun easy crack to a small ledge, around a large hollow flake and back into the corner. Near the top of the corner quest out small cracks and face features to the left onto a nice belay ledge. 5.10-, 190

P3: Step up and traverse left off the belay, making a few face moves to reach a small left facing corner. From here climb up to the roof, place a few good pieces before mantling around the left side of the roof. Gain the 5.10+ wide crack and grunt your way up to the belay stance. 5.10+, 110'

P4: Run it out up easy terrain, keeping an eye out left to eventually traverse left and downclimb a short step into the gully below a cave. Belay in the gully. 5.7, 200'

P5: Climb juggy face features up the left side of the gully, staying in or near the corner. Avoid the wide crack that ascends the main face, continue staircasing up ledges and short corners 5.10-, 120'

P6: Climb a very short offwidth to the next ledge. This pitch can be combined with the previous pitch if rope drag isn't problematic. 5.8, 40'

P7: The "Raised Hair Traverse". Step around the arete to the left, heading toward a large orange flake. Climb up the flake and continue up and left over a few blocks to a nice ledge. 5.7, 100'

P8: Climb a nice 5.8 right-facing corner to a ledge, continue up and left to a short right-facing corner to another ledge below a beautiful corner crack. 5.8, 150'

P9: The Classic Dihedral. Climb a gradually thinning corner crack, with ample stemming, lie-backing, and jamming. From the top of the corner, climb another short left-facing corner to a nice belay 5.10, 120'

P10: Climb a short crack to easy terrain, belay wherever convenient. 5.8, 60'

From here, there is extensive 3rd/4th class scrambling to the true summit of Mt Carillon.

Descent:

If camped at the base of the route, it is perhaps easiest to climb over the summit of Mt Carillon, and descend either the north ridge or a north-facing gully just east of the north ridge. You can then continue angling down and skier's left (north-east), looking for cairns that enter a scree-filled gully. This gully will take you down to the small tarn below the Cleaver.

If camped at Lower Boyscout, the easiest descent is perhaps scrambling down to the huge plateau between Russell and Carillon, and taking faint climber trails back to Upper Boyscout Lake, where the Mountaineer's Route will take you back to Lower Boyscout.

Sweet Carillon starts on a clean slab on Mt Carillon's East Face. Take faint climber trails from the north side of Lower Boyscout Lake. See pictures.

Doubles to #3, one #5