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Description
We all know where Jack Straw is from...and I know you'll be amazed with this classic, thin-edged, sport line. Begin this 2-pitch line on the left of
Scotch on the Rocks
by following the fixed line west, passing the dead tree and scrambling up the broken slab. This route is the left-most of the two bolted lines on a short, 30' wall. Climb past the 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor left of the dead tree. Belay here or angle up right 40' on unprotected 5.5 slab to a higher belay where you will find a 2-bolt anchor on crack/ledge. This is the same belay stance for
Kanarado Korner
.
The classic second pitch ascends 6 bolts up a steep face through a daunting roof. Balancy face moves get you atop the upper slab and lead to a 2-bolt anchor right of the dead tree and belay alcove. Don't let Jack "shoot you down"! 2 single rope raps get you back down.
Location
This is left of
Scotch on the Rocks
. Follow the fixed line past the dead tree and head up the broken slab to the short, steep face with 2 bolted lines. Jack is the left route.
Protection
9 bolts, 2-bolt top anchors.
Routes in Sunshine Buttress (aka Wichita Wall)
- 5Jack Straw5.10+Sport · Trad