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Peak Mountain 3

Unnamed 5.8

FA unknown
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Description

This route follows an obvious crack system just to the right of the Two Pines route. There is some loose rock en route, but I generally found placements I liked, including a couple fall-all-day ones.

Because this line is next to a good 5.7 sport route, I am not under the illusion that I made the FA, or even the first trad FA, so I welcome any information pertaining to that and to the route's name if it has one.

When I led this, I was by myself and had to use my Soloist and a ground anchor, and I also had to rappel the route in order to clean it, and I found that the best anchor was tying off two trees that were a little skinnier than I'd have liked but which had to do. Those first skinny trees I had any faith in were also well back from the top, maybe a good 50', so plan accordingly if you want to set a toprope.

Alternatively, you could probably belay a second from the Two Pines anchors and set a directional at the top of this route without too much trouble.

The 5.8 is my estimate based on my feeling that pulling the small roof down low was a bit harder than anything on Two Pines. Other than that, I'd call the rest 5.6 or 5.7. You can bypass the roof on the right, but I didn't see any good pro there. I did go that way on TR and found it easier, but again, on lead it likely will be a run-out start.

Location

After passing the second, smaller waterfall, cross the stream and hike a little more to a cliff on the right. There is one bolted route on it, and the trad route here is just to the right of it.

Protection

I used cams, nuts, hexes, and Tricams up to a cam in between a C4 3 and 4.

See above for information about anchors.