Missing Chickenheads

This climb is missing most of the chickenheads which are so prevalent on other areas of the formation and provides harder climbing.

Climb up a blocky ramp or the face to a high first bolt at the start of a bulge. Climb up steep rock, and clip the second bolt. A fingertips-only hold and stemming in a very shallow, right-facing corner will solve the crux.

Climb up a short trough to clip the third bolt. Face climbing on nubbins and smears lead past the next bolt and the start of a finger crack.

Clip the last bolt and use the finger crack and nubbins 20 feet to easier climbing and numerous chickenheads to the anchors.

The real name of this route is unknown, but I provided the name to avoid numerous "unknowns." If anyone knows the real name, I will change the name to the real name.

Just left of

Chickenheads and Jams

, this route can be toproped by leading

Chickenheads and Jams

and climbing easy rock up and left for about 20 feet to the anchors of Missing Chickenheads.

[6] bolts plus anchors.

Previously, you needed to

bring finger-size gear to supplement the bolts in the finger crack if you are a "chicken."

Per

David A. Turner

: an additional bolt was added at some time in the past, so no additional gear is now necessary.