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Peak Mountain 3

Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct

FA Kristofer Fiore, September 25, 2016
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Description

Bone Mountain's hardest pitch. A lot of work went into mastering the crux sequence.

Clip a low bolt and traverse over to the arête. A difficult and core-intensive series of moves up the arête leads to a stance below the overhanging face. Delicately pull onto the face and make more difficult moves to gain a good shake just below the business. Pull back out on to the arête, clip the bolt, and fire out a difficult series of crossovers, bumps, and campus moves using small crimps on an overhanging face. Grasp the thank-God jug and pull up high to make the last clip before a tricky mantle to a two-bolt anchor.

Pre-hung draws are helpful with a long one on the final bolt but I did it without one. If you blow the end it's a nice clean ride, no worries. I really should have put the last bolt lower so that might change but for now it has a bit of a mental edge to it.

Location

100 feet right of Dust-in Bones. Look for the line of glue-in bolts up the striking arête.

Protection

Sport.