- Edit (TBD)
Skyfall
Description
Three well protected fun pitches on good rock. the only pitch that really is not quality would be P1. With more traffic P1 would be just fine. Mostly face climbing with short crack sections in each pitch.
P1: April 2019 this was pretty dirty but climbable. start at the small tree where the wall that forms the left side of the gully ends. Climb up from the tree to come out onto the blunt aerete, where you will find the first bolt. Cont. past two more bolts then left into a grungy crack to anchors. 5.10-
(El Camino Real 5.10+ may be a better first pitch)
P2: climb up a very short crack on to the low angle aerete. Pad your way up the slab/aerete clipping several bolts until you reach a bolted rightward traverse. 5.10
Going straight up without traversing is the direct variation to this pitch 11+. More bolts.
P3: make thin moves right off the ground to easier face passing three bolts. Move left around the corner and up a flaring thin hands crack with a bolt to a ledge. Cont up the face past one more bolt to a two bolt belay on another ledge. 5.11-
Location
Left side of careno crag at the giant grungy gully/chimney. The wall that makes up the left side of the gully meets a small tree at the bottom. Start straight up from the tree. You will likely not be able to see the first bolt.
Protection
Single rack 0.5 to #2 camalot, a green C3 or similar is helpful on last pitch. 8 draws, 3ish being Alpine draws.
Routes in Careno Crag
- 5Skyfall5.11aTrad