Off to Work

Start the crack with multiple pods between "Piano Lessons" and "What Dumbasses!" (between the two smaller oak trees as you head up the base of the wall).

The route starts for the left side of Wall 2 between the two oak trees on the slope.

Follow this line straight up, moving past the seams and block features. Your goal is the obvious wide (and at the moment dirty) chimney at the top. Walking off to climber's left and down the gully is faster than rapping from the stations.

Trevor Marks in full gardening mode on the FA of "It's a Disaster!" while Ches Upham gets comfy waiting for him to get his first piece in.

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Pink, red & brown tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.) Don't bother trying to protect the wide at the top, it's pretty short and you'll get a good piece in at the start.