- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1 –
Begin on the east side of the formation up a short steep pocketed face to a fixed pin. Pull the crux at the pin and continue up easier slab (5.3 run-out and a little sandy) to a tree anchor.
5.6 PG-13 50 feet
Pitch 2 –
Hike south on a wide ledge and then scramble (5.0-5.4 depending on path taken) 300 feet to a broad shoulder 50 feet below the the summit. Easier scrambling is found further south (we descended that way but took a more direct line to the top). From the broad shoulder traverse on a sandy, narrow ledge on the west side of the formation until you can scramble up a sandy, exposed gully near the north ridge. Reach a spacious ledge before the summit boulders.
5.0-5.4 R, 400 feet.
Pitch 3 –
The northern boulder block is the true summit. Climb up a fractured crack on the east side of the summit block to the top. This section has to be down-climbed.
5.4, 15 feet
Walk to the south side of south summit boulder and rappel 50 feet from a bolted anchor. Down-climb to the tree and rappel 60 feet to the ground.
Protection
BD C4#0.5-2
Routes in Head Spur
- 1Jafar's Burro5.6Trad