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Peak Mountain 3

Cannibals

FA Scott Frye
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Description

A technical masterpiece of face-climbing wizardry exemplifying the best Donner has to offer. This is the first route in the Cannibals Gully to the right of the "Little Feat" arete. Work up into a shallow right-facing dihedral, then follow the left trending panel on a series of thin liebacks and underclings. Tackle the thuggish, devious boulder problem with seemingly nonexistent feet which then deposits you at a "thank god" jug for recovery at half heighth. The upper face challenges you with a series of small crimps, side pulls, small pinches and finally the infamous "peanut," none of which will do you much good unless you deduce the footwork trickery.

Hard for the grade.

Location

Among the east face climbs just to the right of the "Little Feat" arete in the Cannibals Gully.

Protection

About 8 quickdraws and 2 for the anchors