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Peak Mountain 3

Penny Pincher

FA Kemper Brightman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is money, and some of the holds on it actually feel like holding a thick stack of cash. Start on a pillar of rock in an alcove and use holds to the right and left of the bolt-line. As the pillar of positive feet runs out, transition right to the scoop feature and clip off a positive hold down and right of the second bolt. A couple crimps and a cool sloper-jug put you below the first roof. Pull through this and you’re rewarded with a glory-horn and a decent rest. From the rest, take advantage of good feet to gain an undercling and clip. Now you’re in the crux. The holds might feel like stacks of money, but they won’t save you from the pump. A jug that’s hard to see from below signifies the end of the crux and allows you to de-pump before the minor slab encounter above.

Location

The fifth route right of  the obvious gully. Start is on a pillar of  positive holds in a minor alcove. The route climbs up and right of the hanging block that separates it from the route to the left.

Protection

10 quickdraws. 8 bolts to steel lower-off hooks.

** Some will notice the second bolt is higher than would be expected. This bolt was designed to be clipped off a large ledge that has since been removed. An attentive belay will keep you off the ground moving to this bolt, but feel free to stick clip it if you’re concerned. ***