Zig-zag

Pitch 1. 5.8. Start at the lowest point of the rock. Find a high first bolt, follow bolts up then right to a hand crack, then follow the hand crack about 30 feet to another bolt that leads out and right to a ledge by a bush, 170 feet, 8 bolts, a light rack, 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. 5.8. You will want long runners on everything for this pitch. Climb the face past a bolt and into a corner that goes sharply to the right when the corner turns find a bolt on the upper face. Step up to the higher corner and continue to the right. At the next bolt pull up into an alcove, you can belay here with 1 bolt and gear or traverse about 30 feet left to an anchor, 160 feet, 5 bolts, a light rack, 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3. 5.7. Climb the face and corner to a ledge on the left at the top of the formation, 130 feet, 3 bolts, a light rack, 2 bolt anchor.

From the top, you are about 200 feet from the start of

Anasazi Arete

, or rappel the 3rd pitch with double ropes, pitch 2 90 feet, pitch 1 110 feet into a gully.

This climbs the center of the large rock immediately to the left of the Upper Smoking Section.

Quickdraws, cams small to an optional 3, and long runners! (for pitch 2).