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Peak Mountain 3

Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)

FA Cory Fleagle, Aaron Miller, Jason Maurer (8/12/10)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is on the spire to the climber's left (west) of the Otis Flower Tower.

The spire has been climbed before. I could not find a name for it, so we dubbed it The Piton Spire.

Location

This route starts on the left side of the formation on a rock ledge.

Clip the golden piton at the start, and step out right over a void. Gain the dihedral and climb!

After the dihedral/pitch 1, move/walk the belay right until you are under a wide crack looming above. Climb the slabs up to the wide crack/left-facing dihedral. Climb it to a ledge.

Move slightly left to climb more slabs/wide crack/right-facing dihedral to another ledge.

Climb short broken terrain up to the summit ridge, and head right up the ridge to the top.

To descend, rap off summit to notch behind spire (single rope), then a double rope rap into the gully to the east. Scramble down, and make one more single rap to the ground below.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot.


Routes in Piton Spire


  1. 1
    Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)
    5.9
    Alpine · Trad