Invisible Crowns

This an alternate finish to

Touch Gold.

Unlike most routes in the area, the crux of Invisible Crowns follows a crack system up a continuously steep headwall - so steep in fact that, though Halidome faces due south, the rock on the crux pitch stays fully shaded for all but a few hours in the evening.

This is a great climb on its own but is best done after finishing

Touch Gold

and rapping to its P2 anchors. This gets you the most bang for your buck, and your fingers will be warm for the mono crux of Invisible Crowns.

P1

5.11c, 100ft, 18 bolts, 3 bolt anchor

This is the first pitch of

Touch Gold

.

P2

5.6, 110ft, 13 bolts, cam, 2 bolt anchor

Climb the second pitch of

Touch Gold

, but after reaching the three bolt anchor, continue right and up the clean exposed slab. It is best to extend bolts 4-9 as you traverse the easy terrain. Stay low at the last bolt to avoid poor rock. Bring a single #1.

P3

5.12c, 70ft, 6 bolts, cams/nuts, 2 bolt anchor with steel draws

Extend the first two bolts before climbing past a third (5.10+) to a ledge below a short slab. Protect the easy slab with small/medium-sized nuts before reaching the base of the overhang. From here, it’s mostly big moves to big holds and hand jams except for the distinct crux protected by the final bolt. Find the right spot in the incredibly precise, left hand, mono crux. The last half of the steep headwall is protected by tricky, but bomber, placements. I found it easiest to place gear behind me after I was done using jams. While I only used a #1, 0.5, and #1, an onsight rack may look more like 0.3-0.75 and two #1s.

12 quickdraws

6 alpine draws

Singles 0.3-0.75

Double #1

Nuts

60m rope