Tangling with Yarn

Nice variety of moves and rock situations, with a remarkable double crack section in the middle.

Start up broken face with several options (perhaps most interesting to climb close to the arete) up to wide ledge just left of top of steep section of right-facing gully. Over a couple of three-foot rocks, up onto a ledge with a heavy rock on top -- to reach the double cracks. Up these ...

.

warning

: loose block partway up.

Higher it becomes a single crack: follow that all the way to its top.

Then step left onto moderate ramp and traverse left across this to dihedral corner with a crack. Up two "steps" in the corner, then left onto face and up (crux a bit tricky to find the holds) to the top.

. (

Variation

: Stay in the corner and climb the third "step": awkward).

Descent: No rappel anchor as of 2016 -- so bring slings/cord and rings to construct your own. Or down-climb

the route Chasing the Butterfly

. Or traverse left to two-bolt rappel anchor above

the route "di-crack3"

(see instructions for Top-Roping access for that route).

warning

: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Broken face about ten or fifteen feet left of Left-trending gully with a steep start that faces right. Which is a ways left from a less-steep right-trending gully. About fifty feet right from a set of three corner-cracks.

-->

See on this routes Photo

<--

Top-Roping: Can get access to set up top anchor by first climbing

the route Chasing the Butterfly

. A bit tricky to set up the top anchor.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unknown.

No fixed anchor or bolts as of 2016.