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Peak Mountain 3

Mushin

FA Suchoski 3/5/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start on a mix of small crimps and decent holds to a rest at a horizontal crack. Clip high and get your sequence dialed for the brutal libacks above. Do a ninja kick out right and begin Liebacking you’re way up until you can step on the horizontal crack with two feet and jam your pinky into the ridiculously horrible, half pad, flaring pinky pocket and get set for a dyno. Stick the dyno out left and save some gas for the overhanging battle above.

Mushin;

Achieved when a person's mind is free from thoughts of anger, fear, or ego during combat or everyday life. There in an absence of discursive thought and judgment, so the person is totally free to act and react towards and opponent without hesitation and without disturbance from such thoughts.

Location

Just left of Sloppy lovin’ and right of use of force.

This route is incorrectly labeled route 18 in the “ Locals guide to rock climbs of Northeast California by Paul Bernard. Route 18 (sloppy lovin’) is a corner finger crack just to the left of smooth criminal in a dihedral.

Protection

Three bolts and a couple cams from .4” to 1”. Medium nuts useful in a couple spots.