- Edit (TBD)
Description
The NW Chute is a good route. It is marred only by the tedious nature of the Upper Chute on the way down. Other than that, I would definitely recommend it. The crux depends on conditions. Either the 'Waterfall Pitch' or either of the final options to the summit might qualify.
Once past the 'Waterfall Pitch' (see below) the route kicks back and you're obliged to look for fun amidst all the loose scree.
You can avoid almost all of it. The trick is to find it again on the way down. As you near the rim, you have two choices. You can continue to the ridge and then onwards to the summit, but the easier route is to take the obvious weakness left and climb steep but stellar 4th class rock straight up to the summit.
The Milk Bottle is it's own special thing and while attractive, it seems out of character when compared to the rest of the route. I was 67 when I did this route. I was alone, so did not attempt the summit boulder problem.
Rap slings are easy to find and the first set gets you back into the scree. Several rap options exist when you get back to the top of the Waterfall Pitch. After reversing the traverse you can either downclimb of rap back into the Lower Chute.
Location
As described in the Porcella / Burns guide to CA 14ers (pg 210), this route starts in the 3rd chute south of Thunderbolt Pass.
Your time in the initial chute doesn't last long. As you approach a point where it begins to look problematic, look right and start up a nice moderately steep well featured slab.
At the top of this slab you will come to the rather obvious traverse into 'Upper Chute' The so called 'Wright Traverse' is more visual than difficult.
Up next is the 'Waterfall Pitch'. When dry, it's really the best part of the route. The climbing is really nice and you wish it would go on forever. If it's wet, well that's a different story.
Protection
Most people solo this route. But you will want to bring a rope for the descent. You can downclimb the entire thing but as easy as it was on the way up, I ended up doing 5 raps on the way down. You be the judge.