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Peak Mountain 3

Nightmare Point

FA George Wilson, Larry DeAngelo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch climbs up and left out of the recess to a big ledge on the crest.  The next pitch goes up cracks, then to the right of a large fin.  Belay beneath an obvious slot.  Pitch 3 climbs the slot to a broken area above.  Follow slabs and cracks for a few pitches until reaching a large pine tree.  Easy climbing leads to the top of the buttress.

Descent: You can downclimb to the pine tree and rappel the route.  Alternatively, scramble back to the main headwall and climb 2 or 3 easy but dirty piches to gain the east ridge.  With good luck or routefinding  you can hike down to the base of the East Face.  With bad luck you may need a short rappel.

Location

Hike into the bottom of Deathtrap Canyon.  Climb up the left hand slope and  bear left along the base of the face to reach the major buttress on the left side of the main wall.  The base of the buttress is split by a recess leading up to a huge overhang.  Start near the left side of this recess.

Protection

Standard rack


Routes in North Face