Getting the Sand Back Together

Another great summit perched atop a stack of petrified dust-bunnies. One-pitch-a-day territory for us. All bolts are 4 inches long and tightened up nicely, despite the holes being drilled in just a couple seconds...

P1: Start near the center of the west face, behind and just left of couple fridge-size boulders. There is a long right-angling crack with a steep, filthy start; we began in a cleaner crack 10’ right. Up this 25 feet. When it ends, reach left (thin) and join the long diagonal crack. Follow this more easily till it ends, 50 feet up. Step left and nail upwards (A3-) to a second ledge with two bolts (65’, A3-). Belay.

P2: Up the crack, easy at first, then work up and right to big ledge with three bolts (75’, A3-).

P3: Gain a rotten ledge, 15’ above and right of the belay (bolt). Shuffle past soft, shattered steps and corners (A2-) to the welcome wide crack in darker, harder rock. Gain a big ledge, two bolts (A2-).

P4: Tension right (now on the east side) to a brief crack (A1), free climb (some real rock!) to the summit (30’, 5.5R).

Start near the center of the west face, behind and just left of couple fridge-size boulders. There is a long right-angling crack with a steep start; we began 10’ right.

Descent: Rappel from summit to top of P3. Rappel from here to top of P2. Rap to ground. Leave ropes fixed on P4 and P3 to allow getting back to the belays.

Pitons: assortment of a half-dozen Peckers and Tomahawks: a handful of Knifeblades and Lost Arrows (long, thin): 1 BD Spectre: a couple angles.

Cams: 2-3 sets from yellow Alien to BD’s largest; 1 Valley Giant useful.

Nuts: Selection from medium to large.

Bring plenty of slings and/or Screamers/quickdraws to avoid rope-drag on the wandering pitches.