- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1: same first pitch as Moby Dick's Head. Climb 5.8- past 2 bolts to the center saddle without an anchor. 50 feet
move belay to small tree at southern tip of the upper ridge of Moby Dick's Tail
Pitch 2: climb over rotten and loose red rock to a shelf 5.8. 40 feet (Good luck with anchor here, best to just go to summit)
Pitch 3: climb over a very loose column feature that forms a handcrack on the right and deteriorating sugar on its left edge. Carefully make your way to a lone drilled angle, then easily run it 40ish feet to another large ledge below the 10 foot summit bulge. Climb slightly around right and then to the summit. 5.9+ 75 feet. Good anchor, bring tat.
Rap with 2 ropes to the ground.
Location
Start on east side of Moby Dick
Protection
Double set of cams from .4 to #4, singles from 000 to .4 4x QDs