Bounce Test

Bounce Test is an interesting way to start out your climbing in Moab. It's easier than Owl Rock (if you leave out the last pitch) and has a great view. You can do the first 5 pitches only (5.8-) or all 6 (5.9) This is not at any of the specificed climbing areas but is basically directly across the river from wall street.

Finding it. From Moab take a turn to the west at McDonald's and head towards Kane Creek. Drive past the rim trail to the petracliffs. Take the first dirt road on the left that climbs up a hill towards a large parking area that looks like a junk yard. If the main road turns to dirt you've gone to far. You can hike or drive down the rugged road that continues towards the only rocks in sight. Stay to the left. The slab(or tower) that you will climb is the the third thin slab down. You can recognize it by the tracks that lead up to it as well as the two first bolts on pitch one. The downclimb comes from the canyon on the left.

First pitch is a 5.8 that has lots of soft sandy rock. After that the next 4 pitches are sloping climbs and scrambles up sometimes sparcely protected areas. There is one fun section on pitch two after scrambling after pitch one. Nothing exceeds a 5.7 from pitch 2-5. Pitch six is the crux at 5.9 Bring some webbing that you would be willing to leave on the rock, you might not like the rap slings. There are anchors on pitch one, five, and six - you have to come up with the rest. Great views of Wall Street from the top. I would bring a helmet along for the descent. I had some pretty big rocks fall on the way down. It takes three double rope rappels from either place. If you start from pitch 5 you'll have to swing left to the close anchors. The third rap goes directly over the edge down to the gully and is probably 53-55m, kinda scary in the dark if you can't see the ground.

Make sure and leave ample time for the downclimb, its a killer. We ended up doing it in the dark with no lights, bad idea. Stay to the left when looking down and keep your eyes open for the webbing supports for the steep sections. The downclimb is probably the hardest part of the route.

Any questions you can email me at Kelly_Paasch@und.nodak.edu

1 set of cams 3.5 and smaller, 1 set of hexes or tricams, set of nuts, 7 quickdraws. Lots of variation in the rock. Starts soft and ends scary soft on a 5.9 on scary fixed pro.