Amazon Tower - Original Route

The route starts on the right side of the west face:

Pitch 1. Start by climbing 15' up a left facing off-width chimney to gain a ledge. Then up 15' of thin fingers with a couple of face holds to pass the crux (10b), from there the crack turns into a nice hand crack for another 80'. Bolt belay.

Pitch 2. Head left past some loose rock, then up a wide crack, setting up a belay after 50', slightly left of the crack to avoid any loose rock from the next pitch. Can be combined with the next pitch.

Pitch 3. Continue up the wide hand crack going through a bulge then it opens up to a chimney that leads to Defecation Ledge. (11a) 2 Bolt Belay

Pitch 4. Squeeze through to the South face traversing right to a semi rotten crack that gets solid after 5'. Clean aid (or free) up a #3 metolious size crack which becomes wide before it ends. Clip a bolt above the end of the crack. Continue on aid up the left side of the South face, moving up and right,using a mixture of cam placements, hooking, a 1/2" angle, and a knifeblade, to where it gets blank. Then follow four more bolts with drilled pecker holes in between (a cheater stick may be useful, we were short on bolts & time) to gain the ledge just 6' below the summit rock. 2 Bolt belay

Boulder to the top! 3 Double rope rappels.

Located over Hurrah Pass off of the Lockhart Basin Trail road. Turn left at the wind caves, follow the dirt road up the canyon left of the Carousel Butte. The tower is a 400' thin semi-detached tower on the right side of the Windgate wall to the east (left). Park and start hiking cross country going past the tower by a 100 yards to a steep drainage.

Double set of cams, with 3 #3 camalots, 2 #4's, Extra #3 metolious, Knifeblade, LA, 1/2" angle, 2-3 Peckers, Talon hook.