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Peak Mountain 3

Superman

FA Brandon Thau, Shaun Reed
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 - 12a, 80' - Just left of Krymptonite, climb the obvious hand crack and fist crack (10a) getting a #3 BD in the back.  Easier big hands at the top with small gear available out left leads to the top of the pillar.  Only quickdraws are needed from here until P4.  Hard moves off the pillar (crux) leads up the arete (5.11).  At the top of the pitch, go right around the corner (better) or stay left for an easier, dirtier option.  Finish at a good stance with a two bolt anchor.

P2 - 11a, 80' - Continue up the right side of the arete on excellent face climbing, eventually stepping left to a stance and a two bolt anchor.

P3 - 12b, 120' - Step back right and climb up perfect white granite (5.11) to the base of the roof.  Fire the improbable roof sequence (crux) or fly like Superman into free space.  Climb through a rattly block (would not trundle) through steep, yet easier terrain.  Once back on vertical terrain, either cut left slinging some optional horns and a single bolt eventually joining Krymptonite , or head right to join the last two bolts of Krymptonite.  Belay on the big ledge on top of Krymptonite's P3.

P4 - 10b, 140' - Head up and left from the anchor, placing a few pieces of gear intermixed with bolts.  Eventually gain a short arete to the top of the buttress.

P5 - Same as Krymptonite, ridge climbing leads to the next higher buttress, where it's possible to walk/scramble off.

Location

On the prominent arete of the Krymptonite Buttress.  Starts just left of Krymptonite on the obvious hand and fist crack.  Look for the massive roof above on P3.

Protection

Gear and bolts. Single rack from blue Alien/purple Metolius to #3 BD with optional extra #2 and #3 for the start of P1. I placed (2) #2's but might be better with (2) #3's instead. Could probably get by with just a single rack, too.