- Edit (TBD)
Description
A burly 3 pitch feast of jamming and plate climbing up the left side of Voodoo Dome, served up old-school style. Superb!
P1: Jam the vertical right facing corner for 100 feet with few rests past an obvious horizontal crack to a small ledge on the left when the corner crack is pinching off. Gear belay. 5.10
P2: Exit straight left (5.8, not 5.10 as the guidebook says) on an airy traverse until you can reach big holds and pull up and right. Climb up the ramp to either a bolted belay (use only if you're rapping here, 2 ropes needed) OR continue climbing another 50 or 60 feet to belay on a good ledge below a vertical wall. 5.8 Gear belay.
P3: Head up the steep crack with plates and knobs to a rest, then another steep section to the summit cap. 150 feet, 5.9
DESCENT: Scramble off the back side and head down left between Voodoo and Big Sleep back to the base
Location
Voodoo Mamma is the leftmost route on Voodoo Dome. Look for the standout right-facing corner just left of the thin splitter Voodoo Child.
Protection
Double set of cams to 3" with a single 4" piece. Slings and alpine draws, about a dozen or so. 2-60m ropes if rappelling from the only bolted anchor on the route (at end of 2nd pitch).