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Peak Mountain 3

Bridalveil Falls East

FA Mark Powell and Warren Harding 8/1957; FFA: Frank Sacherer and John Morton '64
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Long route scales the wall to the left of the falls. Starts up easy scramble and quickly becomes more difficult with chimneys and long pitches. The crux is an exhausting 5.10c overhanging fist crack behind a flake on the pitch before last.

Climbing is not as clean as some other Yosemite routes and it felt much more difficult than the old rating suggests. Great experience however, with an amazing view of the falls and with no one competing for it, even during high season.

Location

Hike up to the pond at the base of Bridalveil Falls and cross over to the left. Go up the class 4 scramble to the ledge at the base of the climb. Do not walk up and to the left which leads to another route, but instead start climbing immediately above the lower part of the ledge. A bit higher above you can see the first chimeney, a 5.9.

Protection

Standard rack. Camalot 3s and 4s were very useful on the crux pitch. A few pitons and trees. No bolts.