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Peak Mountain 3

Sharpen Your Teeth

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Description

Clip a bolt from the starting ledge, pull onto some nice jugs and work your way up to a steep but short overhanging corner with a couple smaller holds (crux), stem through this and pull through many more bolts of easy climbing to the top. Seems to be rated 11a on the Cascade Climber's forum list, but is much easier than that.

Option to TR the nice lichen-speckled dihedral to the right (5.8) afterwards (turns to mossy choss at the top, after the dihedral ends, so wouldn't really recommend leading it at this time)

Location

From the intersection of the rock and the approach trail, walk west (left) skirting the base of the cliff until you pass two giant ponderosas at the base of the a gully (this is the walk-off gully for routes that top out). This route will be visible directly in front of you, scree skate your way uphill to it. There is a narrow canyon with a sport/trad mixed route in the back of it on your right, and on your left is the main descent scree gully.

Protection

Many bolts, 2 bolt rap anchor