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Peak Mountain 3

Driftwood or Petrified Wood

FA unknown
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Description

The easier left start in the obvious arching undercling flake is far friendlier (AKA: better, obviously this is a matter of opinion) than the direct, Skinner Problem.

Work up and right in the undercling flake untill you can reach up to a right hand edge that is pretty good. Next reach up left to the petrified wood hold, fingers go in a seam and your thumb on the wood. Next surf out right to a kind of terrifying hold, there is a dark circular inclusion with a perfect two finger tooth that you grab, it just seems as though it is going to snap off. Reach left to the top gaining a rounded friendly hold and top out relatively easily.

Problem Q1.5 from the Mayer & Moret online guide, "Just to the left is a hard problem, first done by Todd Skinner in 89. The second hold up and left is a sucker, go right slightly. Crux is near the top and the landing is problematic -- use a crashpad for sure and have a spotter to prevent you from landing too much left. At least V4; and V5 if you start from the ground on the two heinous crimpers. You can bring a Petzl short bolt and a hanger for the single bolt on top if you want to toprope it. I am told this is a great problem, hence the rating, but I have not done it."

Location

On the clean upper wall above the Wounded Knee boulder stating from the right arching undercling flake on the left side of the wall.

Protection

Pad and spotter. While not really tall, the landing is only about 4 feet deep and if you happen to tumble back it drops off beyond that.


Routes in Backside of Upper Mound/ Wounded Knee area (Northern cluster of boulders)