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Description
You've heard of the Dawn Wall, but have you heard of the Dong Wall?
AKA The Wall of Early Morning Wood
Me and fellow ding-a-long "Ramrod" Ramsey were content with the idea of spending the day drinking alcoholic mango spritzer, getting lost on an obscure cliff, and making dick jokes. However, what we encountered turned out to be some decent climbing. Behold.
Pitch one: 5.8 Begin just right of East Ledge fixed lines. Scramble up to the finger crack corner and up a face, past a fixed pin, to a bolted anchor.
Pitch two: 5.10d Climb flakes up and right to and over a small roof. Climb the thinning finger crack until it slabs out. Break right, then back left, past a bolt to another finger crack, a fixed pin and bolt. Reach or jump up and left to a ramp that brings you to a beautiful hands corner and then to the bolted anchor.
Pitch three: 5.10a Climb the right facing corner above, past a few 4" sections, a taste of flare, it looks more difficult than it is. Continue up the corner until you can traverse right to the killer splitter crack. There is a wiggly block in the corner that is a bit scary but refused to be trundled despite our heavy handed attempts. Ride the splitter through glory hands and fingers for 90 feet. Truly, this crack is amazing.
Location
Begins just right of East Ledges lines
Protection
Double cams to #3, 1x #4, nuts
Routes in 3. East Ledges
- 1Dong Wall5.10dTrad