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Peak Mountain 3

Broken Bits

FA Don Wilson & Jack Marshall, November 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Interesting Joshua Tree face climbing, though the start, which traverses a bit, is fairly traditionally bolted and the slab is still exfoliating to some degree. Falling before the 3rd bolt would not be recommended. Continues up, trending right near a gully/chimney. Follow left of the chimney up to a large ledge.

Either scramble right to the “anchor” on Early Bird (2 rope rap), or downclimb off the back.

Location

On Fat Freddie’s Cat, up the gully a little bit (the next face) from

Early Bird

. You can either start off a boulder leaning near the main face, or use the first two bolts of a line to the left (Time Avenger 5.11b), then traverse right and up on the slab.

Protection

A couple of rusty buttonheads, I can’t remember if anything was needed for the chimney at the end. Some medium pro for an anchor at the top.