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Peak Mountain 3

Elysium

FA Alex Garhart and Daniel Garman, June 29, 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb big hands through a steep bulge (crux) to a good stance. Continue up via 5.8 offwidth (#4 Camalot) into the chimney. Climb hands in twin cracks in the back of the chimney until the cracks disappear. Make a couple of easy chimney moves to gain another crack on the right wall of the chimney that continues to the top.

Location

This route is located on the farthest west semi-detached buttres directly below Upper Mighty Mouse Wall. Approach as if going to Upper Mighty Mouse Wall, leave the trail on your left when it intersects an obvious boulder field and traverse left across the boulders to the base of the climb.

Protection

BD (3) #2, (3-4) #3, (1-2) #4, slings. It is best to belay from gear (#2 and #4 Camalot) and rap 80 feet down the 2-bolt station on the south side of the formation.