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Peak Mountain 3

The Sorcerer

5.11d
trad
FA Jim Dunn and Chris Wood, 1977 FFA: Jim Dunn and Leonard Coyne, 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climbs up the left side of the pillar. Pitch 1: 5.10 offwidth past 3 star-drives to 3 bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 5.9+ wild chimney/tunnel to 3 bolt-anchor. Pitch 3: Strenuous and unique 5.11d off-width/squeeze chimney past two drilled angles and one lead bolt to two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 is the crux - exposed and committing. Decent: 3 rappels down route.

Protection

Rack: Singles from fingers to hands, extra large gear (Big Bros, #6 and #5 Camalots)

2010: All anchors at belay stations replaced.

Routes in The Sorcerer

  1. 1
    Sorcerer's Crossing
    5.12-
    Trad
  2. 2
    The Sorcerer
    5.11d
    Trad